The Jesse Tee by True Bias

Hooray, hooray, hooray for an awesome boxy t-shirt pattern!!! I feel like I’ve been looking for a good boxy tee pattern for forever! Everything I came across seemed like it wasn’t quite what I was after. So when I eventually stumbled my way onto the Jesse tee I was nearly jumping for joy at finding what I wanted. Then I realized the pattern is FREE for newsletter subscribers and I practically felt like I was walking around with an ice cream cone in each hand!

The Jesse Tee is from True Bias. I haven’t made a ton of their patterns but I’ve made enough to know that they are a good fit for me. Plus, I feel like True Bias has done very well with the oversized look (like with their Marlo Sweater). The deal just kept getting sweeter as I realized my stash had the perfect fabric to use for this project!

I got this fabric from Gather Here in Boston while I was on a trip a couple years ago (my sisters in law were nice enough to walk out of the way so that I could check out a fabric shop!). I wanted to get something and I loved the tiny, multicolored confetti speckles on this knit so I bought it even though I didn’t have a project in mind. I didn’t take note of the fiber content when I bought it but if I had to guess I’d say it’s cotton and nothing else. The fabric has very little stretch and no recovery. It’s a sturdy fabric with a structured drape.

If I had sewn this up right away, I think I would have made a poor choice for its destiny. Now, a couple years later, I know the fabric wouldn’t be very suitable for a Union or a Mandy, which need more stretch. But the Jesse Tee is unique in that it suggests a knit fabric with 10% or more stretch. This is a very low stretch percentage for a t-shirt. The instructions also explain that a more structured knit will show off the boxy nature of the pattern better. It is also recommended (though not required) to use a rib knit for the neckband-or something with at least 50% stretch. This is unique and something that I think really affects the look of the final product.

I have a small number of rib knits in my stash so I pulled them out and decided to go with this pretty jewel turquoise I had leftover from some sweaters I made. Hilariously, my sister was working on a project at the same time that was surprisingly similar (speckled fabric, colored rib knit neckline) but she was having a hard time finding a good ribbing to use for the neck band. It made me think that having a solid stash of rib knits wouldn’t be a bad idea-I think I’d definitely use it! So maybe that’s something I need to build up!

The only thing I was missing before making my top was printer ink! Ha! So once I got my act together and bought myself some ink (a solid two months later, thank you very much!), I was finally able to start this much anticipated project!

The Jesse comes with two options for length-a cropped view and a view that hits mid hip. Cropped views are typically too short for me (taste-wise) so I altered the full length view by shortening it 4 inches. I also had to fudge my cutting just a bit as the sleeve pattern pieces weren’t fitting onto my fabric. So I cut it them out, as you can see above, lining the pattern piece up at the bottom with the curling selvedge edge (why yes, I do use cans of curry paste as my pattern weights 😂). I even told myself I could keep the curling edge as a hem but didn’t like it so I steamed the crap out of the edge to get rid of the curling and then hemmed as usual.

I hemmed everything really nicely and told myself it was done but then I tried it on and was really hating the fit so I adjusted and tweaked until I was happy with it. From the sleeve, I took off 1 1/2 inches and then once I hit the bodice seam I tapered my seam to take off 1 inch from the bodice. So I could probably size down the next time I make this. Also, and I’m starting to see a pattern here, I think I need a forward shoulder adjustment. I’ve wondered at a couple other top patterns and even noticed a problem in some of my RTW tees. So I think it’s official: I’m a gal who could probably benefit from a standard FSA. Just slowly learning my body over here, nbd.

Anyway, aside from the frustration of having to unpick seams and re-hem, the sewing was no problem at all! T-shirts are SO awesome in that they consist of very few seams and even fewer pattern pieces. It’s amazing to be able to knock out a project in relatively little time. I also think tees are overlooked as a makeable garment. When people find out I sew clothes, it seems like they’ll only ask me if I made something when it’s closely resembling what they have in their scope as what can be handmade…basically anything prairie or pioneer-ish. I never get asked if I made my t-shirts because I think most people don’t realize you can make a t-shirt. But you can! And it’s so rewarding!

Anywaaaay…I am in love with my Jesse Tee! It’s the perfect boxy t-shirt. The sample tees made by True Bias that you see in the listing photos were made with the slub cotton from ISee Fabrics and their matching rib knits. Having used that fabric on some other projects I can say that it truly would be perfect for this tee. I’ve got a gift card to ISee so I’m going to get some fabrics to make more Jesses and to commence with this new found goal of bulking up my rib knit stash! Ha! But seriously, I don’t think I could be happier with this pattern! It’s basic but wonderful (and free!!!)!

Pattern: Jesse Tee by True Bias
Size: 10
Adjustments: shortened bodices by 4 inches; took sleeve in about 1.5 inches and bodice seams in about 1 inch
Fabric: a very low stretch, structured knit from Gather Here in Boston and leftover ribbing from Blackbird
Cost: Pattern: free; Fabric was probably about $25 for 1.5 yards; everything else from stash
Would I make this pattern again?: Yes! But with a forward shoulder adjustment and perhaps sizing down